Author: esper

In-Depth: Does Great Movement Finishing Mean A Great Watch?

A few weeks ago, we published an in-depth study of a new watch from Montblanc. The watch in question is the Heritage Manufacture Pulsograph, which uses a movement manufactured at the Minerva Institute of Haute Horlogerie in Villeret. As most enthusiasts probably already know, this is the home of the Minerva Watch Company, which has undergone some changes in ownership and direction over the past 20 years and now produces hand-crafted movements for Montblanc cheap replica watches.

It’s always interesting to see people’s specific reactions to Montblanc Minerva pieces, as they raise some interesting questions. Leaving aside the whole question of how the company has evolved since its acquisition by Richemont in 2006 (and how it has evolved since the Frey family sold it in 2000), the reaction of enthusiasts to the quality of Minerva movements tends to be very positive, as they represent a very traditional, classic example of fine watchmaking in the very typical high-end Swiss idiom.

However, this particular aspect of watchmaking is not universally attractive. On the one hand, it would be surprising if it did have universal appeal, since people have different tastes. On the other hand, however, those who are not interested in movement finishing, and those who believe that modern watchmaking should emphasize engineering innovation and precise performance, may find finishing superfluous at best. For them, it seems a relic of an era in which, in the absence of true innovation, watchmakers passed the time by giving movements a jewel-like appearance (to borrow a famous phrase from Georges Daniel, whom himself preferred his movements to have a more sober, less obvious look). In a review of the Heritage Manufacture Pulsograph, there were several such dissenting opinions, as one HODINKEE community member, danazol, wrote.

“Allow me to ask: I’ve read many times that the real difference in fine watchmaking is the traditional finishing process, which has always bothered my modernist-leaning mind because it seems to put decoration above engineering and overall design. To me, a beautifully crafted mediocre design remains mediocre, although I can see the merit in the effort. Since I am not an expert in movement engineering, does a mediocre movement engineered but beautifully crafted still pass for Haute Horlogerie, or does this not exist?”

This is a very big question, so much so that I hesitated initially to answer. It would take a book, and a big one at that. However, it is a very interesting question, and it seems a shame to me to back out and not try to answer it, at least in a general way. So, now it begins.

The subject of sports decoration must be seen in a larger context, as these technologies do not exist in a vacuum. Rather, they result from the different roles that swiss replica watches have played over the centuries and how timekeeping technology has evolved. Movement decoration is something that has evolved throughout the history of watchmaking. Many of the early movements – which go back to the earliest table clocks, which gradually evolved into watches as they became smaller and smaller – were iron movements. While they could have very elaborate decorated cases, the movements were often more or less completely undecorated.

Panerai Luminor Fake Watches

You might not immediately think of Panerai as an everyday watch. After all, they can be pretty polarizing with their significant cushion-shaped cases and oversized guards. However, there are several exquisite options in the brand’s catalog that fall somewhere between tool who sells the best replica watches and beautiful dress watches that are ideally suited for everyday wear. One that comes to mind is the Luminor, which features the brand’s signature lever crown protector, cushion-shaped case, and luminous baton, and Arabic hour markers.

Design sets are available in a wide range of options, including stainless steel, gold technology, titanium, and black ceramic, just to name a few. You can also choose a metal strap to match the case, an elegant leather, or other fabric options. In addition, there seems to be a dial color in the current collection that will suit almost anyone’s wrist, such as military green, vibrant blue, elegant white, sleek anthracite, and traditional black.

In terms of case size, the most extensive offering in the current collection is 47mm, while the other end of the spectrum is as small as 42mm. However, not every Luminor is equally robust. Interestingly replica luxury watches, there is a parallel series to this line called Luminor Due, which has a much slimmer case of about 40% compared to the original Panerai Luminor.

Is Tudor Today What Rolex Was Yesterday? — Trying To Find An Answer To This Conundrum

There are many similarities between Rolex and Tudor. But there are also big differences when you look at the brand today. When you look at Rolex, say 10 to 15 years ago, it has similarities to Tudor today. And, the watches that Tudor sells and the way the brand sells them today are similar to a time when Rolex models were as interesting to collectors and enthusiasts as they were to status seekers. Rolex has always strived to be the quintessential luxury watch, an easily distinguishable status symbol. Tudor shot to fame when it launched the Black Bay in 2012. Not only did it show watch enthusiasts Tudor’s past, now offered in a modern package, but it also tapped into Rolex’s back catalog of hard-to-get gems. It was a brilliant move that is still paying off almost a decade later.

You could argue that Tudor is a one-hit wonder, because only the Black Bay – and when I say “only” Black Bay, I mean its dozens of iterations since 2022 – has really been on the radar of most watch enthusiasts. The more modern Pelagos didn’t seem to be enough to keep up with the more nostalgic Black Bay. As a one-trick pony, it certainly has its risks. When your party trick gets too old, you don’t have anything else to show for it.

On the other hand, there are a lots of one-trick ponies that continue to draw large crowds – just think of Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak and Patek Philippe’s Nautilus. Even Rolex is a fairly homogeneous brand, as every important luxury watches replica in its collection is an Oyster constant movement. The base is the same, but the different movements, functions and colors give the watches different names.

What I do know is that the GMT-Master II in 2021 will be relevant and horologically important in 2048. But perhaps in 27 years, the Tudor name will ring a different bell. Now I’m talking about brand image. TUDOR has expanded its advertising, expanded its dealer network and gotten more mainstream media coverage – and hiring David Beckham wasn’t a bad move in that regard. All of these things have helped develop TUDOR’s image and ensure that people recognize it as a prestigious brand.

Tudor is following in the footsteps of Rolex, but it also occasionally takes a more scenic or adventurous route. Whereas Rolex is bound by tradition, Tudor dares to break away and experiment with cases made of bronze or silver, for example. Unexpectedly interesting materials are as much the norm for Tudor as Oyster cases are for Rolex.

If TUDOR can continue to grow, by 2048 it could be the Rolex brand of 2021; a brand with a highly recognizable, evolving collection of watches. Black Bay is a marvel for TUDOR, which has attracted a huge audience in all its iterations. As a result, it can grow into more than just a collection and become an irreplaceable part of the brand’s DNA. It can become a household name, just like the Submariner or GMT-Master II have become. For now, it’s safe to say that if you have a Rolex itch that just won’t go away, Tudor is an immediate way to scratch it. But it’s up to the next generation of Tudors to make sure your itch stays scratched.

Wrist Game Or Crying Shame: Rolex Submariner 16613 Silver Serti
When we last met, I gave you a lot of James Bond references when I pulled out the Seiko 7549-7009 Tuna. I love that watch, but the real reason I’m writing this article is to nitpick, “In Her Majesty’s Secret ….. .zzzzzzzz”. Oh, sorry, I’m up now, and so are you, because you gave Seiko 66% of your blessing. Well done! Now, today’s Rolex Submariner 16613 Silver Serti promises to bring real pandemonium in our comments section. Will it get the support vote? Has it reached the point where it’s all the rage and become cool? Let’s see…

I should start by saying that Bob’s Watches has a great little article on the history of the Serti dial. It also features some examples of the more famous Submariner and GMT-Master that use this particular dial. So, what are we talking about? This article tells us that the word comes from the French word “sertir” which means “to set.”” Setting” refers to the jewelry that is affixed to the dials of many of the brand’s watches. Yes, Rolex has long been known for its jewels on the fancier pieces, but as it happens, the sporty/tooled models are the most famous. Today’s Rolex Submariner 16613 Silver Serti is a perfect example.

So here’s the thing about watches like the Rolex Submariner 16613 Silver Serti. We know that Rolex has been offering precious metal versions of its most sporty watches for decades. Some people decry this because these watches are noisy. However, I think there is an argument to be made that they are relatively pure because they are pure metal. They can do all the things that basic steel models can do, but they add some glamour. So, what happens when functional fluorescents give way to bling?

What I can tell you is that when I was young, watches like the Rolex Submariner 16613 Silver Serti were everywhere in South Florida. I remember seeing them all the time in stores like Mayor’s, and to be honest, I didn’t like them. Even back then, to me they felt like a car that had been taken for one of those faulty vinyl roofs after purchase (also common in South Florida). I didn’t know much about watches when I was younger, but I knew that the Submariner was a big, solid watch. It doesn’t look so sturdy with a dial full of jewels, does it? I must admit that one thing I did like was the distinctive silver dial itself. That’s a neat touch.

Regardless of what I think, watches like the Rolex Submariner 16613 Silver Serti are popular and they have a bit of a cult following right now. With so many two-tone Submariners on the market, in so many different states, it’s hard for me to tell if these exact replica watches are actually commanding a premium. What I can say is that they don’t seem to be generating discounts.

It’s hard to classify a watch like the Rolex Submariner 16613 Silver Serti, but I think it goes further in the weird direction than models like the GMT-Master Root Beer. They are unique and a bit polarizing, but undoubtedly Rolex. Perhaps I would prefer to compare them to the now highly prized Stella dials. These days, with Rolex models in high demand, people are looking for the semi-dusty corners where they think they can find value. As a result, we’ve seen models like the Submariner “Bluesy” explode in terms of pricing. Are the strange Serti models ready to go? Who knows…

Today, Rolex no longer makes models with diamonds and sapphires like the Rolex Submariner 16613 Silver Serti. They now offer diamonds, so things have become more subtle – I think. If the original look is your thing, today’s model looks like a nice example. This 2004 model (along with photos) is the property of Collectors Coins & Jewelry of New York and is listed on Chrono24. It comes with the original box and all the paperwork and appears to be in good shape. The seller tells us that it is unpolished and is priced at €13,052. There are a lot of two-tone submarines up and down at this price level, but it seems fair to me.

Now is the time to give your opinion on this Rolex Submariner 16613 Silver Serti. I don’t think I’ve ever read anything about one of these models in the comments on our site, so I’m really curious. Cast your vote and let your words fly!

Pre-Owned Picks New Watches From Rolex, Tudor, Omega, And TAG Heuer

It’s getting warmer by the day, which means we’re thinking about the watches that we want to take with us for all of our summer adventures. Whether that means lounging by the pool, diving in the ocean, channeling James Bond, or pretending to be a racecar driver, these are the perfect pre-owned picks to get your summer break off to a great start.

Tudor Heritage Black Bay Steel & Gold
The best watches are the ones that you want to wear often, and as we head into warmer months, we can’t think of one we’d rather keep putting on than this 41mm Black Bay Steel & Gold. Its two-tone construction delivers the luxury of gold with the sportiness of steel for an effect that’s made for lounging by the pool while on vacation. It’s just enough to be indulgent, with its weighty 18-karat gold central bracelet links, yet practical enough for daily wear.

Tudor Heritage Black Bay S&G 79733

$4,650
And it’s backed up by solid watchmaking and the legendary build quality that Tudor, the younger more aspirational sibling of Rolex, has come to embody.
Rolex GMT-Master Ref. 16700
The reference 16700 is the last GMT-Master and the follow-up to the 16750. And yet, it debuted after the launch of the GMT-Master II, known for its independent local hour. This is because Rolex continued to produce the GMT-Master well after the successful debut of the GMT-Master II, as a more affordable alternative.


Rolex GMT-Master 16700

$14,525
This example has a fully blacked-out aluminum bezel insert, one of the iconic bezel variations dating back to the reference 1675. As a result, it has a monochromatic appearance that runs against the better-known colorful Pepsi variation.
Rolex Daytona ref 116500LN
There is no chronograph more famous than the Daytona, the original hard-to-get steel Rolex sports watch. Its legacy and its connections to the world of automotive sports are legendary, and in the field of endurance racing it’s practically peerless. There are some big F1 and IndyCar races coming up this month, and LeMans, itself, in June. Having a watch like this one on your wrist while taking in the action would be most fitting.


Rolex Daytona 116500LN

$38,400
Today we have the latest version with black ceramic bezel insert, featuring a design that instantly evokes Rolex’s early Valjoux-powered Daytonas while boasting a number of modern-day Rolex enhancements, including an in-house chronograph movement with Parachrom hairspring. We’re pleased to offer the most recent chapter in one of watchmaking’s really legendary stories.
TAG Heuer Aquaracer 300M Caliber 5
The Aquaracer is a sporty, affordable, good-looking modern dive watch, its angular bezel with large legible numbers making it easily recognizable from across the room. It’s a luxury watch, sure, but with 300 meters of water-resistance, tough stainless steel build, and a price just north of $2,000, it’s a watch that you can wear confidently through all of summer’s adventures without missing a beat. And at 43mm, it has serious wrist presence without being overly bulky. The 12mm height will let it slide under your linen shirt sleeve as you order a frosty beverage from an open-air bar.


TAG Heuer Aquaracer 300M Calibre 5 WAY201A

$2,075
Inside is the Calibre 5 automatic movement, a modified version of a tried-and-true ETA engineered for reliability.
Omega Seamaster 300 Master Co-Axial James Bond ‘Spectre’ Limited Edition
And last but not least we have the 2015 Omega Seamaster 300 Limited Edition made for Spectre. Worn by Daniel Craig in the film, it has an obvious vintage vibe, channeling the early dive watches made by Omega. But make no mistake: This is a serious piece of modern watchmaking, a Master Co-Axial Chronometer, which means it’s not only highly accurate but also tremendously antimagnetic. It also has a useful 12-hour bezel, which means it can be used, on the fly, to track a second time zone.

OMEGA Seamaster 300 Master Co-Axial James Bond SPECTRE Limited Edition 233.32.41.21.01.001

$12,625
This ought to come in handy if you plan to really make the most of this summer and get a good trip under your belt, hopefully to a warm island renowned for scenic dives, drives, or both.
To view our full selection of pre-owned watches, visit the Shop.

Replica Rolex Sea Dweller vs Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean

Today, you can be the ruler of the seas – with the help of a Swiss watch company, of course. If you want to venture into some of the deepest parts of the ocean, or just want a seriously waterproof watch, there’s no need to look to the stars for answers. The nearest luxury watch dealer will do just fine.

But honestly, two of the best dive watches in the world are Omega’s Seamaster Ocean Cosmos and Rolex’s Heidelberg. Although, the similarities between the two pretty much end there. Due to the different movements and functions, these two watches may be separated by oceans. So, who will win in a battle between Rolex and Omega? We’ll let you decide.
The Rolex Seaview has a longer history than the Seamaster, which was the first model introduced to the market in the 1960s. After that, the Seamaster has undergone various upgrades and changes, all for the betterment of deep diving. So, for comparison purposes, we will compare the newer Ref. 116600 which was produced in 2014-2017, to the Seamaster.

When we first reviewed the Rolex 116600, with its unidirectional rotating diver’s bezel, it was clear that this was a sporty rolex swiss replica watches. What wasn’t obvious at first glance, however, was that behind this stainless steel water-resistant case and scratch-resistant sapphire crystal was a modern 3135 automatic movement with a desirable blue paramagnetic hairspring. But the watch itself pays homage to the earlier Sea Dwellers with a chunky 40mm case that’s still smaller than the Seamaster.
Other new features include long-lasting luminescent hands and hour markers, a state-of-the-art ceramic Cerachrom bezel and a 904L stainless steel Oyster bracelet with Glidelock clasp that extends beyond the diving suit.

While the Seamaster has a bigger feel on the wrist, the Hideaway beats it in terms of depth – it goes further. As for the looks, both watches are sporty – the Seamaster’s signature orange markings are more dazzling, while the Rolex is uniformly handsome.
What these two watches have in common, however, is that their stainless steel water-resistant cases make them virtually indestructible, making them ideal replica swiss watches for everyday wear. While the 44mm Seamaster may be a bit more visible than the 40mm Sea Dweller, they both have nice, easy-to-read faces with date displays. In the end, it’s safe to say you’ll enjoy diving with these watches as much as you do wearing them. Moreover, in a head-to-head competition between Rolex and Omega, both watches have their admirable features. We’ll leave it to you to choose.

Fake Rolex GMT Master II Ref. 16710 Review

We haven’t delved into the world of vintage watches on the WRB YouTube channel, although this Rolex GMT Master II ref. 16710 isn’t exactly an ancient vintage, but I thought it would be an exciting piece.

When I picked it up, I immediately compared it to modern Rolex offerings.

Rolex gets a lot of hype, and it’s rare to hear an opinion other than “it’s the best.” But I will tell you that after spending some time with the GMT Master 16710, Rolex’s new modern collection is undoubtedly a significant improvement over past designs. I can appreciate the pure tool watch aesthetic of the Ref 16710. Still, at the same time, it feels a bit bland, and this is a comparison where you can really appreciate the subtle but excellent changes to the aluminum bezel inserted into the ceramic, the larger and easier-to-read “max dial” markers, and one of the most important changes on the modern Rolex model is the solid link bracelet and stronger clasp.

Comparisons aside, if we pull back to the late 90s and early 21st century, the Ref 16710 was at the top of its league and started Rolex’s iconic GMT Master II line – it was a replica rolex watches to own then, and indeed still is now for those seeking some nostalgia and pure Rolex tool watch DNA.

The blue/red bezel version, aka Pepsi, has been the most popular color combination for the GMT Master II and was issued to Pan Am crews back in the day – but the black bezel version we have here is the stealth watch for those who still want GMT functionality but don’t want to venture into submariner territory.

As beautiful as this watch is, I think I would personally prefer a Submariner from the same era if I had the choice. It’s a very subjective preference, and as someone who prefers simplicity, I prefer the markers and click action on the bezel, the text on the dial, and a thicker crown, like the Submariner #16610.

One of the impressive aspects of the 16710 is the comfort of the wrist. 16710 is impressively comfortable on the wrist, and it’s no mystery that this best replica watches does feel light on the wrist thanks to the hollowed-out chain strap and slightly slimmer case and lugs. Visually, I’d say it’s comparable in size to the modern Rolex GMT collection, with slightly slimmer lugs, but still quite long.

This particular movement starts with the 3185 and transitions to the 3186, which has a hacking function and a 24-hour hand with a 24-hour tachymeter function.

I hope you enjoy this fast-running GMT Master II 16710. It’s an absolutely beautiful watch and an all-time classic.

Buying Elegant Rolex Daytona 6239 “Paul Newman”

It is really true that the “Paul Newman” Rolex Daytona has generated so much attention and excitement. Calling it a vintage classic doesn’t do it justice – it’s like calling Superman a strong man. But what is it that makes Rolex enthusiasts so fervent? Or perhaps it has to do with the staggering increase in resale prices over the past few decades, which have reached absolutely astronomical levels in recent years.
While the Paul Newman Daytona is out of reach for most collectors’ budgets, it is still an exciting watch to research and learn about. This guide is intended to provide a clearer picture of what many consider to be the greatest vintage best replica rolex watch on the planet. What exactly makes the Daytona ref. 6239 a Paul Newman Rolex? What are its features?

Beginning in the 1960s, Rolex started offering a unique dial variation for the Daytona chronograph. Officially named the “Exotic Dial” by the Rolex catalog, it was an aesthetic departure from the regular Daytona dial, featuring stepped minute tracks and an Art Deco-style chronograph font. Today, these exotic dials are collectively referred to as “Paul Newman” dials and Rolex chronographs containing them are known as “Paul Newman Daytona” watches, but we will discuss the origin of the “Paul Newman” moniker later.
As they are so few in number and in such high demand these days, finding an authentic Rolex Daytona with an exotic dial in good condition is no easy task. However, it is also important to note that while the price difference between a traditional vintage Rolex Daytona and a Daytona with an exotic dial is significant, the only difference between them is purely cosmetic.

While early Daytona replica luxury watches with exotic dials were not popular with Rolex customers, that soon changed after they became associated with the famous actor and race car driver Paul Newman. In a genius marketing move, the Italian auction house is said to have exaggerated the fact that Paul Newman himself wore a Daytona with an exotic dial and began referring to these particular models as “Paul Newman” Daytona watches. This hype was fueled by a photo of Paul Newman himself, in which the Daytona ref. 6239 with its white dial can be clearly seen.
Newman’s Rolex Daytona 6239 was presented by his wife Joanne Woodward. In addition to possessing superb acting skills, Paul Newman was also an accomplished racing driver. To reflect this, Woodward engraved the back of his Daytona with the words “Drive Carefully for Me”. This charming nod to Newman’s love of motorsports only further adds to the watch’s fame in many collector circles.

Upgraded Fake Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M

The second generation of the Planet Ocean 600M is more of an evolution of this popular collection than a redesign. In addition to the standard 42 mm and 45.5 mm cases, OMEGA did add a 37.5 mm case; however, the omega replica watch also received some slight aesthetic updates, most notably the appearance of a ceramic and liquid metal bezel for the first time. OMEGA has also revised the indexes and hour-markers, as well as the logo, to make them larger and more visible. One of the main differences on the dial is the upgraded “Seamaster” name, which now appears in orange instead of the white of the first generation.

With this in mind, the biggest upgrade accompanying the second generation is the new internal 8500 movement. To the excitement of collectors, this new movement features a silicon escapement and hairspring, as well as two new mainsprings, which together provide a 60-hour power reserve. OMEGA has also equipped the caliber 8500 with a DLC-coated barrel shaft to reduce friction and a new, more aesthetically pleasing rotor. It is also crucial to note that instead of the traditional tasseled date, the new Cal. 8500 movement features a jumping hour. The 8500 caliber has a jumping hour hand that jumps quickly forward or backward in one-hour increments to facilitate time zone changes.

The second generation of Planet Ocean watches is also beloved for welcoming models such as the GMT in 2013, including the GMT for the GoodPlanet Foundation, and the Planet Ocean for the 2014 Winter Olympics in Sochi. 2014 also saw Omega finally able to create an orange ceramic bezel for the Planet Ocean GMT, which marked the the first time the brand was able to obtain this difficult color from this new, highly resilient material.

Nowadays, the Planet Ocean 600M is available in dozens of iterations, including durable stainless steel and titanium, as well as rose gold, stainless steel, white gold and rose gold, among others. Collectors also love the variations on the bezel, with OMEGA combining the now-standard Liquidmetal ceramic with vulcanized rubber. This has allowed the Swiss fake  watch brand to develop an awesome, vibrant orange color that isn’t too shiny and looks perfect against the ceramic bezel. There are some beautiful combinations such as black and orange or gray and orange. There’s also the beloved blue ceramic bezel, which looks especially good on the 18k Sedna rose gold Planet Ocean 600M model.
Collectors also love the strap options on the third generation Planet Ocean 600M. Their rubber straps have always been notoriously comfortable to wear and have always been a fan favorite. In their more advanced versions, you’ll find metal straps as well as leather straps, such as the blue alligator strap on the Planet Ocean 600M with white gold diamond trim.

Divers’ Replica watches are inexplicably popular

I spent last week in Geneva, during which four days of torrential rain gave me time to think about some issues. Of course, given its location, a lot of the things that come to mind have to do with watches and watchmaking, and I can’t help but wonder why diving watches, in general, seem to be as popular as regular watch replica.
Apparently, the answer is that they are as a rule, much more durable and dependable than non-dive watches but the more I thought about it, the less clear it seemed to me that they are as a class better in a general sense for daily life away from actual diving, than other watches might be.

In fact, after thinking about it for a long time, I think diving watch is not just a very niche watch, but a very special application. For a watch to be, so to speak, officially a dive watch, it must adhere to some fairly particular requirements, which are spelled out in the ISO 6425 standard. The fact that the organization has so many members, and that consensus is nearly universal on its utility, means that time pieces that can be called dive fake watches share to a remarkable degree, the same basic features.

The standard requires the ability to pass so many tests, including a battery of water resistance tests, and diver’s watches must also possess certain design features, including the ability to be read in total darkness at a distance of 25 centimeters, and of course, they must possess a unidirectional timing bezel – this has been a necessary feature of true diver’s watches going all the way back to the early 1950s, when the replica Rolex Submariner and Blancpain Fifty Fathoms debuted.

For those who don’t touch watches often, many watches seem almost indistinguishable and hard to tell at a glance. Of course, they offer a relatively narrow range of choices in terms of personal expression of taste.
The design homogeneity of diver’s watches often seems to provoke brands to exert themselves, to find ways to design a dive watch which looks different enough from other offerings to attract attention as a unique effort, but this is a very tricky thing to pull off. Diving watches or does not work, in its most basic level, on the function is successful, although you may want to make you look different from the other manufacturers have a very sharp point of diminishing returns — you can’t dress up very diving watches before starting to look like a illustration of diving watches, instead of diving watches.
The truth is, dive fake watches don’t usually go with anything more formal than polo shirts and khakis. They can vary from person to person or watch to slightly incongruous to completely unsuitable for business attire, and as for semi-formal or formal attire, I wouldn’t do that.

Replica Latest Tudor Black Bay Chronograph S&G Two-Tone Watch

Before several weeks of Baselworld 2021, if you were paying the least bit of attention on Instagram, it was almost impossible to avoid the hype around theories about new releases. It’s possible that a new Tudor “Snowflake” Submariner was among the buzziest theories and not one that the brand didn’t do its part in stoking. However, like a new Rolex Milgauss or Explorer II, most of these predictions didn’t come true. To be honest, I was so happy to see the release of this Black Bay Chronograph S&G (that’s steel & gold) omega replica watch, which is essentially its version of an Omega Ploprof (design-wise, that is) with the Black Bay P01. In my recent memory, a two-tone chronograph hasn’t been the remedy to an existing steel model, while Tudor has introduced a reverse Daytona, and this S&G version breathes 2019’s steel Black Bay Chronograph new life.


Being a diver timepiece, there’s an inherent bit of confusion about it. Personally I think the mistake of the initial steel Black Bay Chronograph was that it leaned too hard in hoping it could make you forget that contradiction via having an unremarkable piece. Now Tudor has gone all in with the two-tone aesthetic and has provided it on a two-tone bracelet, bund strap, leather strap, and fabric strap. There are several different variations you may love it or hate it, which is so much better than being simply perplexing.
Tudor states that aesthetic inspiration here dates back to the Oyster-Prince Submariner ref. 7922 but it’s obvious that some of the vintage Rolex Daytona models in gold are also a significant point of reference. The matte black dial with gold sub-dials (that still seem just a bit too small to me) benefits largely from keeping the gold in a very mellow tone. This is echoed on the bezel, which has its outer edge done in gold, as well as a frame of the dial that are done in gold and black. The pushers and gold-capped crown pull the entire thing together to reach that Goldilocks level of “just right” breakdown of steel to gold. It exudes personality and a complete, cohesive design weather you like it or not. Compared to the steel model, it has always looked visibly incomplete for me.
The Black Bay Chronograph S&G runs on the same MT5813 movement that first made an appearance in the steel version two years ago. Controversy over the use of “in-house manufacture” phrasing aside, this is the movement Tudor developed with Breitling. For me, the most important here is that it offers 70-hour power reserve, although the steel caseback won’t allow you any view into it, anyway. In terms of practicality and ownership, this is a movement to applaud purely based on performance.
The case measures 41mm-wide and 14.9mm-thick, the width of a lug-to-lug comes in just a hair under 50mm. Under normal condition the case thickness isn’t bad, but the thickness goes up considerably when the swiss replica watches is on the bund strap or NATO strap. Surely, that’s always part of the equation here but something did obviously change the wearing experience when compared to wearing it on the bracelet.
As for the most hardcore watch enthusiasts, there are something really important, and nomenclature is one of them. It does irritate me that basically every Tudor now has to be a Black Bay, especially this piece. With this gripe apart, even if the Heritage Chrono several years ago is my favorite modern Tudor timepiece at present, the Black Bay Chronograph S&G presents its own particularities among the family of a brand famous for divers perfectly.